Sunday, September 5 - Messolonghi - Patras - 19 000 - Patras Port of Call
After a stopover of several days Messolonghi a little longer than expected due to bad weather, we decided to start this Sunday early in the afternoon. The weather is uncertain and we opt for a short journey across the Gulf to Patras where we arrived about 19h.
The crossing was eventually made almost any sailing downwind with a small and a bright sun despite the dark clouds that linger on the mountain tops.
We had barely docked the boat in the port as a "Coast Guard (Coast Guard) arrived to control us, is the first time ... and we are not in order!
Indeed, we still have not bought the infamous transit-log paper required for the movement of foreign yachts in Greece, which incidentally, is a complete violation of European laws on free movement of goods and people.
Whatever, it continues, only the price has fallen ...
The Coast Guard is nice and we indicates where we should go to pay this tax from 29 € to get the precious document, which we'll do the next morning.
Patras is a major city, the third in Greece with 175 000 inhabitants. It is located south of the huge inlet that cut Greece in two, and ends at the Corinth Canal. It was destroyed during the independence war and rebuilt with a geometrically rectilinear grid of streets.
A magnificent fortress (the Kastro) dating from 551 BC dominates the town, we were unable to visit because it was closed on Monday, the day of our visit.
A former Roman Odeon was restored, downtown is pretty nice with its arcades, parks and a huge place where the Apollo Theatre.
Otherwise they are rather ugly tall buildings, a huge ferry station (more than 1 km long on the waterfront) bordered on its east end by abandoned buildings, homeless people squatted by young immigrants probably sore Departing ... They are hung on the fences, watching eagerly the ferry traffic
... We wanted to leave on Tuesday but the wind and current were against us, so we gave up and, as the marina operates through two-day period, we stayed until Thursday.
We have traced the city on foot and observed the life of the Greeks in this great metropolis ... A lot of people in broad daylight on the terraces of the cafés. In front of the marina there is a long walk in the evening it is crowded and bars are crowded until late into the night, pouring out their flood of music. We are forced to close our ears to sleep!
This city is noisy, busy and surrounded by areas rather dirty and sometimes poorly attended ...
Thursday, September 9 - Patras - Trizonia - 21,000
We leave the noisy port Patras around 9:30, there is no wind but too bad ... We are moving towards the suspension bridge that spans the narrow strait of Rhium and the closer we get, the more current (opposite) arises. It is 2.5 knots under the main span and slows us down but seriously it does not last. Half a mile farther, the inlet widens considerably and the current becomes zero, we set sail for an hour and again the engine. Already
Trizonia Island looms on the horizon and we take the channel which separates the continent, a pretty deep bay east of the island welcomes us and we anchored our anchor by 3 feet on the bottom mud and grass.
A marina was built 25 years ago (with funds Europeans) just next door but was never completed due to embezzlement. The docks and the two concrete pontoons are used but there is no electricity and only one water tap. In the middle, between the two pontoons, a 15-meter ketch is cast, the two masts above the water. This strange
marina is crowded and there are some boats a year, Germans, English, French live there ... It's always free.
After a reconnaissance on foot, we find a place and we will settle for a few days.
What about this little island if she is charming with its hilly landscape makes scrub, rock but also vineyards and olive groves. Everything is peaceful and we like living out of time.
However, in the beautiful places, there are sometimes ... and a great waste landfill occupies a height of the island, it is visible from the sea So the people they feed a large population of cats to fight against rats descend to the village when the fire is set to burn waste So ... is it Trizonia named the island cats.
We meet up with our friends Nicole and Dominique de Houbibi that live for a few days in the "marina".
We stay there five days and we do not see the time passing ...
An anecdote: One day, we take the small boat to cross the continent and do some shopping at the village opposite. We are in the company of a priest in a cassock, hat and long beard.
Having landed, we follow the same direction and we see him with surprise ride a cultivator drawn by a trailer and go quietly on this machine. A priest gardener what!
Tuesday, September 14 - Trizonia - Galaxhidi - 22,000
is a slight headwind as we leave this haven of peace, first in the engine and sail by pulling both sides. Algieba threads between the many islands to reach the small port of Galaxhidi which is already Houbibi. In this port, you must wet the anchor and moor alongside ass ...
In trying to put us near Houbibi, we take our anchor in the chain and must repeat the maneuver by choosing another place a little further ... Hot ! But ultimately it's going well.
Galaxhidi is a pretty small village tourism a little sleepy in the heat. The houses are typical and colorful, the streets are quiet, we feel far from the bustle.
We undertake climbing the hill overlooking the port and the top of which stands a windmill. We borrow small steep trails among the pines and then through the scrub. Along the way, we meet a beautiful turtle that wanders placidly amid the tufts of thyme. From up there, the view over the village and nearby islands is superb.
Wednesday, September 15 - Galaxhidi - Itea - 5000
very short step across the islands and islets to reach a station that is Itea resort located in the bottom of a small gulf, there is a large dock without water or electricity but inexpensive. The power blocks are in place but deteriorates gradually even a marina project that has failed! The small
father spends with his mini-truck tank tells us that the marina had begun to function and then went bankrupt shortly after, everybody wanted to fill their pockets!
The city is rather nondescript but pleasant and you can find anything. It has still three magnificent churches colored, brand new ... Moreover, it is an excellent base for visiting Delphi what we'll do the next day.
Thursday, September 16 to September 23 - Itea
Thursday, we take the bus that takes us to Delphi by winding roads and impressive, along ravines overlooking the plain covered thousands of olive trees ... A veritable sea of green ! The visit of the archaeological site does not disappoint, as the beauty and magnificence are everywhere. We particularly enjoyed the theater, the Temple of Apollo and the stadium and the location at the foot of Mount Parnassus.
The name comes from the word dolphin Delphi (Delphi): in Homeric poetry, Apollo would have taken the form of an animal to attract the Cretan sailors charged to establish his worship on the site.
The first village dates back to 1400 BC and the temple was probably begun around 800 BC, it does not start today! The oracles were distilled by the Pythia that were sure to please everyone ... Policy required!
is attributed the destruction of the temple to the earthquake of 373 BC. AD, but the disaster caused by a landslide, was quite limited. Then the site loses its autonomy and began a long decline, especially after the conquest of Greece by Rome.
The next day we rent a car with Dominique and Nicole Houbibi and start exploring the surrounding area. The first step is to visit the imposing monastery Osios Loukas which is among the most beautiful Byzantine monasteries in Greece. It is classified as World Heritage by UNESCO and is renowned for its mosaics on a gold background of the eleventh century frescoes and refinement of its decoration: marble floors, jasper and porphyry ... Luke is the founder.
We had to dress "appropriately", trousers for men and dress for the ladies ... well that was 6 months I had worn pants! The monastery
is still occupied by some Orthodox monks.
After a good breakfast Arcachova, we take a small mountain road to visit the cave of the Peacock ... We never find!
We continue our walk on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, thinking of all the stories of gods and muses in these parts. The airport of Itea
will last few days that we will do long walks in the groves, we also go to a small beach from the center to enjoy swimming.
Two days of strong wind make us wait again before leaving this small town friendly and almost free ... The Coast Guard, known to us as "Admiral" in his beautiful white uniform, has not taxed as three nights of the nine that we have passed.
Friday, September 24 - Itea, Corinth - 40,000
A very irregular and gusty wind accompanied us during the day, it ranged from 3-20 knots and over without warning and the vessel is lying at times. .. We in the nose of course! It will become more regular and then we end up with no wind and the engine ...
The small port "craft" of Corinth is not seen until the last moment because it is masked by large cargo ships docked in the port of trade. It is tiny and poorly designed, there is very little space. We reach
we moor alongside a small dock where there is little water, drift also affects the background, we quickly note. A little father on a bicycle we guess English tells us: a tap water, no electricity ... We can stay as long as we want is free in his view, the Coast Guard have something else to do that s occupy sailboats pass.
This man, a very nice Cornish, is actually a homeless man he saw at an angle from the small fishing harbor, ensconced under a fig tree where he converted a corner with a table and a "sleeper" ... Two dogs stand close guard, everybody knows him, he does odd jobs for repairs to fishing boats and embark from time to time for fishing.
He will greet us when we left. Young Tunisians
idlers hanging around the port and offer help when a boat docks ... for a small pièce.Ils also wash cars.
short, a great city of passage.
Saturday, 25 September to Friday 1 October - calling at Corinth
We are located at Fishermen's Wharf and in no hurry to return to Messolonghi
... One day, we took the bus company Houbibi crew to visit the archaeological site of the ancient city of Corinth. We are delighted with our visit back as this site is full of wonder and traces of the past. We imagine the life of the Corinthians of the time in this city very organized, with a magnificent system of water, baths, markets, shops, temples etc ... and defended by an imposing fortress overlooking the city to 524 md altitude. It was also equipped with a port (Echaion) located on the coast below.
Dominique is passionate about geology and archeology, it serves enlightened guide.
Another day we rent a car, still with our friends Nicole and Dominique and this time we climb to the fortress. Having walked on the stony steep trails, the remains of pottery found among the stones, and admiring the yellow crocus cyclamen violets blooming in the rocks, we arrive at the top of the site.
There, they say, Aphrodite and her companions were engaged in naughty games ... Let's say then that the Corinthians had a reputation as a debauched, Saint Paul moreover tried to preach!
Anyway, the scenery is beautiful, we enjoy a superb view over the Gulf of Corinth Isthmus and the Canal and the entrance to the Aegean Sea.
the afternoon we visit the Lake of Vouliagmeni almost closed set in the mountains covered with pine green light, it communicates with the sea by a channel a few meters wide and very shallow. And finally, it will be the ancient port and the sanctuary of Heraion Perachora dedicated to the goddess Hera, located in a spectacular setting ... Before returning and stopping to admire the Corinth Canal, which forms a real cut in the rocks.
The rest of the time we take to be in town to do some shopping and know a little better this city of Corinth.
Saturday, October 2 - Corinth - Andika - 31,000
port of Corinth is left behind by a gusty wind from North-West (of course it is our direction!), Which requires us to rotate and engine and sailing do a lot of maneuvering. It will become more regular then hauling the North / Northeast, which suits us, but falter in the hour of noon, and Volvo will take over.
We then full-back low and leave it to sail a few miles before reaching our destination. The sun is hot, so good ...
We have two miles to go but, before entering the large Bay, we see the foaming sea in less than a mile to port. First surprise, we realize that the big black clouds flooding the mountaintops generate a kind of katabatic wind that descends along steep slopes.
Indeed, more and more we move the Sea is white, the wind rises suddenly and reached 25 knots in a few minutes, the bursts are furious.
I cared for lowering the mainsail before entering the cauldron and we head towards the small port engine by telling us that with this time, the anchor is not funny ... Fortunately, there is a place to dock and we go into the maneuver docking with the strong crosswind. The anchor is wetted by the sailor about forty meters from the dock and then walk back to late the fast boat to the dock while down the chain.
At one point we stop place to securely anchor the hook and then continued to move astern to the dock where I can throw the ropes at two boaters who have been nice maneuver.
And here Algieba is locked and swaying wisely ... phew
The port is very small and there are only 4 places for passing boats. A power station works well as a faucet, we do not know if we must pay, we'll see!
Algieba did not see an outlet for nearly three weeks, the batteries will enjoy! Andika
or Andikiron (we lost in the various spellings Greek) is a small village in a vast circle dominated by high mountains.
The season is over and we find the calm after the bustle Corinthian countryside! Walks in the jungle and encounters many turtles here.
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